The Organic Trade Association (OTA) is the governing body in the U.S. for promoting and advancing organic agriculture and food products in the public awareness and within U.S. and state government organizations, especially the USDA. Founded 20 years ago and touting 1500 business members, the OTA is working to expand its influence from agriculture and foods into organic textiles and body care products. The OTA invested five years developing “The American Organic Standards for Fiber Processing” standard and it is still undergoing modification and revision. They are currently on version 6 of the document. The OTA standard defines four levels of organic labeling: 100% Organic. All components are organically grown and certified, including the sewing threads, and all processes used to manufacture the garment conform to the processing requirements stated in the standard;   Organic. At least 95% (by weight) of the agricultural fibers are organically grown and all processing adheres to the environmental processing requirements given in the document;   Made with organic (specified fiber products). At least 70% (by weight) of the garment have been organically grown;   Less than 70% organically produced constituents. Maybe it has some organic fiber content, maybe not. All non-organic garment components may be processed and handled without regard to the OTA standards.   What you see is what you get. For levels 1 through 3, all chemicals used in the manufacturing processes – knitting, weaving, cleaning, scouring, dyeing, and finishing – must conform to the process requirements defined in the OTA document to insure environmental sustainability and must not be carcinogenic, mutagenic, teratogenic, toxic to mammals, or an endocrine disrupter. All degreasers, detergents, surfactants, and soaps for scouring wool and animal fibers must be biodegradable. Synthetic waxes can be used on yarn but they must be water soluble and free of alkyl phenol ethoxylates. All knitting and weaving oils must be water soluble.  Any non-organic items in the garment such as button, zippers, elastic yarns or fabrics must be on the list of approved items for which there are no organic counterparts available (sounds a wee bit like the standards of organic food products approved by the USDA with OTA backing). The use of chlorine bleach, plastisols, some AZO dyes, formaldehyde and synthetic chemicals for functional finishes (all the “anti-” stuff such as anti-wrinkle, anti-fungal, anti-pilling, anti-odor, etc.) is prohibited. Also, no Genetically Modified Organisms (GMOs), including GM cotton, are allowed in any phase of the process from growing organic fibers to final finishing and packaging. The OTA standards are clearly intended to create guidelines for creating textiles and apparel that are environmentally friendly and generally healthy to wear - even though people with Multiple Chemical Sensitivities (MCS) are often troubled by some of the dyes and other chemicals that are allowed. The OTA American Organic Standards do not contain guidelines for Fair Trade Practices.